Poster De Conférence Année : 2024

Evaluation of Chlorella vulgaris extracts for skincare products

Résumé

Excessive and repetitive sun exposure damages and accelerates skin aging, a phenomenon known as "photoaging", through the action of UVA rays (320-400 nm) and blue light (420-500 nm). These rays stimulate reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, leading to oxidative stress and potentially irreversible cellular damage. UVA rays penetrate deep into the dermis, resulting in wrinkles, loss of elasticity and hyperpigmentation. Blue light exacerbates the effects of UVA by also generating ROS, contributing to pigmentation disorders. Consequently, active ingredients that can neutralize ROS or absorb UV rays are highly sought after in cosmetics for their protective properties against skin aging. Microalgae are unicellular photosynthetic microorganisms which are gaining attention in the cosmetics industry due to their biodiversity and chemical composition, including carotenoids, which prevent ROS formation within cells and absorb UVA and blue light. The application of microalgae-derived carotenoids extracts in skincare offers a promising strategy for preventing photoaging, underscoring the potential of microalgae in enhancing skin protection and longevity. This study investigates the quality of Chlorella vulgaris CCALA 924 extracts by analyzing the pigment profile, antioxidant activity and phenolic content, with a focus on cell wall disruption through various ethanolic extraction processes. The rigid cell wall of microalgae can hinder the extraction of bioactive molecules like carotenoids. To address this, different pre-treatment and extraction techniques were evaluated for their effectiveness in cell wall disruption: a mechanical method (bead milling), physical methods (ultrasonic and microwave techniques) and a thermal pre-treatment (several freeze/thaw cycles). Cell disruption was assessed via simple microscopic observations, and the target molecules were quantified using spectrophotometric and HPLC-DAD measurements. Total phenolic compounds content (TPC) was determined using Folin-Ciocalteu assays. Lastly, the antioxidant activity of C. vulgaris extracts was measured using ORAC and DPPH tests. The results indicate that bead milling of C. vulgaris in pure ethanol efficiently disrupts the microalgae cell wall, unlike in water. Pigment extraction, TPC and antioxidant activity increase with milling duration, reaching a threshold when the cells are fully disrupted. The next step is to test the integration of microalgae extracts into sunscreen formulations and evaluate their impact on the sunscreen's effectiveness.
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Dates et versions

hal-04874122 , version 1 (08-01-2025)

Identifiants

  • HAL Id : hal-04874122 , version 1

Citer

Emmanuelle Tari, A. Dimitriades-Lemaire, P. Alvarez Diaz, J.F. Sassi, A. Sacuto, et al.. Evaluation of Chlorella vulgaris extracts for skincare products. AlgaEurope 2024, Dec 2024, Athènes, Greece. 2024. ⟨hal-04874122⟩
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